products
photo gallery
FAQ
specials
contact us

Mountain
Q: Is timber overlay the same as Floating floor?

A: No

Floating floor and timber overlay are completely different products. Floating floor is a composite product made up of either a laminate, or thin veneer of timber glued to plywood and sold in pre-finished panels which clip together. The panels are laid over a 3mm thick piece of foam and wedged on the edges. The product was originally developed as a commercial product for situations such as retail stores, where tenants are not allowed to permanently fix to the concrete slab. It commonly has a squishy feel to it when you walk across it and may also have a hollow drummy sound to it.

Another common problem with floating floors is that as the panels are pre- finished, there is no seal between the boards. Hence if moisture is spilt on the floor, it easily enters between the panels and gets into the plywood backing, causing it to swell and erupt.

Timber strip overlay is a solid floorboard that is permanently fixed to the slab or chipboard. Once installed it is sanded and sealed and thereafter looks, sounds and performs like a real timber floor.

Q: Why are timber strip overlays different sizes and thicknesses?

A: The original dimensions of the rough sawn timber from which it is machined determine the final thickness of timber strip overlay. Currently on the market are strip overlays ranging from 14mm thickness down to 10mm thickness? Most overlays are machined from timber, which has a width of 100mm. To ensure the timber’s stability the rough sawn material has been kiln-dried in accordance with Australian standards. The rough sawn material might start out at a common size of 100mm x 25mm (the old 4 x 1) and be sawn in half (“deeped”) to make two boards. This is a cheap and inexpensive way of making two floorboards. Alternatively, the boards can be machined from timber cut specifically to size (eg 100mm x 19mm) which is more expensive.

Q: What difference does the original thickness make?

A: In Australia we dry timber only to the point where it approximates the ambient moisture in the atmosphere, and a standard range of 10% to 15% moisture content has been determined as appropriate. Any less than this and the timber will begin to absorb moisture and swell, any more and the timber will continue to dry and begin to shrink, cup and warp.

When timber is dried in a kiln, it does not dry evenly all the way through. Commonly it will be drier on the outside and wetter on the inside, much like a cake that is not cooked all the way through. This doesn’t matter as long as the timber has been dried evenly all the way around.

If however you “deep” the timber and saw it in half, you expose the wetter centre. This causes a problem as you now have different moisture contents on the two sides of the board. Lay down a floorboard with higher moisture content on one side than the other and you will have trouble, such as cupping and warping of boards.

Q: What thickness are the boards from Mountain Timber Products?

A: We manufacture our timber strip overlay only from a single kiln-dried board that we machine to its final thickness. Because the original material is consistently dry on all sides, the final floorboard remains stable. As a company we do not approve of the practice of “deeping” timbers for flooring and believe consumers have a right to know the implications of this practice.

An added advantage is that being 10 - 14mm thick the floorboards can be resanded more often if they are scratched or damaged.

Q: What does straight-line edged mean, and why is it important?

A: When ordinary floorboards are machined the mills use a power hydraulic arm to straighten the boards as they feed through. So a board shaped like a banana can still be machined properly. This is acceptable, because the boards can be clamped together using strong flooring clamps before being nailed down onto the timber floor joists.

With strip overlay however, you can’t use floor clamps to straighten the boards, because you don’t have floor joists to clamp from. It is therefore essential that the boards have nice straight sides to begin with. This is accomplished by allowing the moulder to actually machine the edge of the board so that it comes out straight, regardless of how it went in. This is called straight-line edging. This ensures the boards do not try and return to their original shape, and allow gaps to develop between the boards. At Mountain Timber Products, all our timber strip overlay is straight line edged to ensure easy installation and years of trouble free service.

Q: What does end-matched mean?

A: End-matched means the board has a tongue and groove on the ends as well as the sides, allowing for neat joins, and securing the ends of the boards into all the boards around it.

Q: Should I get a moisture test done on my concrete slab?

A: Any reputable installer will insist you consider getting a moisture test done if your slab is less than six months old. If the moisture content in the slab is higher than 3% the installer may suggest the use of a moisture barrier to protect the timber flooring while the slab continues to dry.

Q: Are all timbers stable?

A: Unfortunately no, some timbers have very high oil contents that tend to make them unstable as floorboards, even when properly dried.

You should check with your installer as to how stable the timber you like will be when laid as floorboards.

Q: How do I choose which timber is the most appropriate for my home?

A: Consider all options before deciding. Try to imagine how it will co-ordinate with your furniture, curtains etc. If there isn’t going to be lots of natural light, perhaps a lighter coloured timber such as Ash might help lift the room. If you have to co-ordinate furniture from different timbers, the natural variation in Tasmanian Oak could be perfect.

Perhaps a feature border in another timber, such as Jarrah could help make a bold statement, or lead visitors into the house.

Another option may be to have a parquetry floor in the entrance leading to overlay boards in the rest of the house. There are many options available.

Q: Does it matter which glue I use?

A: The choice of glue is very important. When water based glues are used with kiln-dried timber, the timber may act as a sponge, and absorb the moisture out of the glue, swelling the timber. Water and timber don’t mix!! We recommend the use of polyurethane adhesives ensuring the correct product is used for the job.

Q: Are floorboards hard to maintain?

A: Timber floorboards can be easily maintained by simply mopping over with a damp mop. Your initial choice of timber can influence how much housework you will be doing. Darker coloured timbers show the dust and dirt much faster that say Ash or Tasmanian Oak, which disguise the dirty marks much better.

Q: How do I get more help or information?

A: Simply call our Toll Free number 1800-893893 and we can arrange for an obligation free quotation.